Blackheads: What Are They and How Do We Get Rid of Them?
Blackhead removal is easily one of the most common skin concerns my clients approach me with. For something so small and not visible to others they really do cause a lot of bother. But with so many different products and tik tok skin care hacks (some of which cause more harm than good) to choose from, it can be hard to know what’s best.
So, I’m going to break down what blackheads are, why we get them, and how to get rid of them!
1. What are blackheads?
Blackheads aren’t specific to a certain skin type or season, whilst some people might be more prone to them, anyone can get them at any time. Now our skin is covered in pores, and within these pores excess oil, dirt, dead skin and products we use on our face can build up causing the pores to become clogged up. The oils then react with the oxygen in the air and become oxidised which turns black in colour, hence the name blackheads!
Blackheads can be more prevalent in certain areas of the face, such as the nose and forehead. These areas tend to produce more oil than other areas on the face, and due to the shape of the nose oils and dirt can collect more easily.
Blackheads or Sebaceous Filaments?
I’m constantly trying to educate my clients on the difference between Blackheads and Sebaceous Filaments as they get mixed up all the time, understandably as they are very similar. Sebaceous Filaments also are a combination of oil and dead skin that has collected in your pores, and again they are most visible on the nose and forehead areas. They tend to be light grey or sandy colours, unlike blackheads which are darker in colour and form a little bump on the surface of the skin. Unlike Blackheads they do not have the hard oxidised head that causes a complete blockage in the pore and they are actually a perfectly normal part of healthy functioning skin.
Sebaceous Filaments can be removed but just remember that as they are a natural part of healthy function skin, they will return.
2. Skincare tips to reduce blackheads
You’ll be glad to hear there are a few different ways to tackle blackheads and prevent further ones from occurring. If we go off the principle that blackheads are caused by a buildup of oil and dirt, then in order to address the blackheads we have to start at the root of the problem and address the skin’s level of oil production and dirt build up.
Salicylic Acid is a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) and is great for oily and congested skins. This ingredient has the ability to work on the skin's surface and within the pores themselves to dissolve dirt and unclog the blockages. Salicylic Acid is a must if you struggle with blackheads!
Retinol is another fantastic ingredient to target congestion. Otherwise known as Vitamin A, retinal, retinaldehyde (and other names) is a powerhouse ingredient that increases cell turnover and helps to prevent the build up of oils and that, if left, would cause blackheads.
Clay masks could be a great addition to your routine, especially if you have oily skin. Masks such as kaolin or bentonite will draw out oils, dirt and impurities from deep within the pores and can help to balance your skin's natural oil production. You could also look for sulfur, zinc oxide and charcoal. Be careful though as over use of these can leave the skin feeling dry - use no more than once a week.
Exfoliate your skin. Every skin is unique but generally twice a week is a great place to start - you can choose from physical or chemical exfoliants. And if you’re looking for a professional exfoliation treatment, Dermaplaning is a great choice!
Cleansing should be a priority when trying to combat congestion. Make sure you are double cleansing every night to remove any makeup, oils, dirt and anything else that could block your pores.
Regular facials, especially those that include extractions, will help keep on top of congestion and will maximize the results you are getting with your at home routine.
Please feel free to get in touch if you need any support with exactly what products to buy.
What treatments will help blackheads?
The best professional treatments for blackheads are chemical peels, manual extractions, microdermabrasion and hydrofacials.
3. Is there any maintenance?
Yes a degree of maintenance is required. Some skin types, particularly those who are oily with large pores, will be more susceptible to blackheads. For those who are prone to blackheads you will need a solid daily routine and should aim to have a treatment to target blackheads every 4-6 weeks.
4. What NOT to do.
We all witnessed the craze of the black charcoal peels of masks that were supposed to help remove blackheads and impurities from the skin.
Now do you remember the videos of people crying actual tears when it came to peeling them off?! These masks often contained glue-like ingredients that would cling to the vellus hairs (or peach fuzz) on your face and would cause actual pain when removed. If it hurts THAT much to remove, surely that's a sign that it's not doing anything good for your skin? Not only that but they wouldn’t do a thing to actually remove blackheads and build up from clogged pores.
And it’s the same principle for the blackhead nose strips that you often see people using. I am strongly against using anything like this on your skin - they scream damaged skin barrier, irritation and inflammation. We don’t want that!
Note: Some people use rubbing alcohol, toothpaste or any number of other bizarre concoctions to eliminate blackheads but they won’t work and will only end up damaging your skin!
5. Can’t I just squeeze the blackheads out?
I know it can be super tempting to get in front of that magnifying mirror and squeeze until your skin is sore, but don't do it. You could potentially spread bacteria, cause inflammation and even scarring. It's really not worth the risk of causing damage to your skin… just leave it to the professionals.
There are actually specific techniques and tools that skin care professionals use to perform extractions. If the skin isn’t prepared correctly you’ll find it really hard to remove any blockages, and exerting too much force on your skin is not going to help either. Poor technique could even mean you push some of the trapped dirt and oils further into the pore which would only exacerbate the problem.
If you are struggling with blackheads and are completely new to skincare we recommend our ‘Bye Bye Blackheads’ facial as a great starting point. This facial is designed to give the skin a really deep clean and focuses on extractions to rid the pores of any built up dirt, oils and blackheads.
6. The takeaways
Blackheads can form easily, but there are plenty of measures you can take to get rid of them and prevent them returning! All it takes is the addition of one or two steps to your skincare routine and you will start to see a difference.
Once you’ve nailed your daily routine it's time to look at introducing regular facials to maximise your results. Professional extractions will remove those blackheads without damaging your skin, and will help keep new ones at bay.
Take a look at our full list of Facial Treatments.
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